Sunday, March 28, 2010

Sunday, March 14, 2010

The Earthquake

During a nightly stroll along the beach front Florencia and I were looking at the big signs that advised you what to do and where to run if a Tsunami was coming. I was explaining how an earthquake usually is the culprit and how a shift in the ocean floor creates the wave.

We were joking about seeing one and the time you probably had to run for the hills being so short the sign would be much good.

Off we went to sleep after a nice meal and a beer zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz.

At 3:30 ish (I am not quite sure) we were woken and Florencia was saying "can you feel that?" "Feel what" I said. The next moment the wardrobe door was shaking and the coat hangers behind it were dancing in a desperate attempt to jump out, amplifying the sound. I was still just waking up not totally sure what was happening. I looked out the window and as I did so I felt the floor swaying back and forth and for the next few minutes there was no more doubt what was happening. Flore in a flash was dressed and ready I was still in my pants trying to find my trouser leg, she picked up the baby and ran for the stairs. I was a minute behind her and the 7 floors of stairs and the night air made sure I was fully awake.

We waited outside with all the other hotel guests who were rudely awoken for about an hour to make sure the hotel didn't fall down. We eventually went back upstairs to bed and I dropped off quite quickly. The hotel shook more that night and the next day several times, it wasn't a nice feeling. We were lucky because we had planned to be in Santiago at this time and the city took a large hit.

Isla Damas Natural Reserve

We were up early for breakfast and loaded in the minibus by about 9am. We headed north for about 1 hour before we hit the windy mountain pass that seemed forever to climb. The minibus started to make a hissing sound as we reached the top and our driver pulled over and gave us the bad news. He called for back up because he wouldn't take us any further even though he just filled up with more water.

The next 2 hours we were roasting by the side of the road hopefully picking out the cavalry only to be disappointed by another white van. We did however have a nice set of companions from the van who gave us mate and biscuits.

By the time the new van came we were all hoping not to be the next carcases for the vultures to pick at. Wouldn't you like to bet who the new driver was? Yes the one and only Speedy Gonzales from our last encounter. He greeted us with a smirk, probably because he knew it was us that complained about him a few days before.

We drove on to Caleta Punta Choros. Here, we took in the views of Gaviota, ChaƱaral, Choros and Damas islands, the later three of which are part of the Humboldt Penguin National Reserve: a protected territory covering some 2,000 offshore acres where the Humboldt penguin has been known to nest. We soon had to jump into a wooden motor boat and sail across to the rocky shores of Gaviota and Choros islands, happy home to sea lions, sea gulls, pelicans and the like. After about an hour of getting too close to the big swirl and boat crunching rocks we disembarked on Isla Damas, to spend the afternoon relaxing on the white-sand beaches of La Poza and Tijera.

Twinkle Twinkle, Little Star

Close your eyes and try to imagine life at Earth’s magnetic center. Are you picturing volcanoes, tidal waves, earthquakes and molten lava? Try an oasis of wandering goats, fermented grapes, new age gurus and telescopes. Believe it or not, the spot on earth that’s supposedly most energetically charged is an arid valley to the west of the Andes, in central Chile.

Spiritual wanderers and gurus of meditation, yoga, astrology and the like, settled in Chile’s Elqui Valley in the 1960’s. Their search led them to this location, a place where two rivers (the Turbio and Claro) act as the ying and yang of Earth’s new water chakra or “Svadhisthana.”

Astrology tells us that for the past 2000 years, Earth’s previous magnetic center was located in the Himalayas, in Tibet. That, however, was in the Age of Pisces. Today, in the Age of Aquarius, the magnetic core has flopped hemispheres to 30 degrees South.

In 1982, scientists measured Earth’s magnetic forces for the first time by satellite. Sure enough, the hippies were right on. The satellites found the Earth’s greatest point of energy in South America, around Chile’s Elqui Valley.

From Chile’s oldest coastal city, La Serena, the Elqui Valley can be reached by bus. Several bus companies leave from La Serena’s bus terminal and travel the route east into the valley, stopping in villages along the way to pick up and drop off school children and other locals. The drive into the valley is breathtaking as the scenery moves away from coastal and into the mountains.

Another reason to stop in Vicuna is a chance to visit the Mamalluca Municipal Observatory. That’s right, the Elqui Valley isn’t known just for its magnetism, this region also happens to sit under one of the clearest atmospheres in the world. The Elqui Valley sits out of the way of city lights and maintains a gentle, steady climate with little wind or precipitation. So if stargazing is your thing, you’re about to be blown away.

On a moonless night, the starry skies can be seen up to the eighth magnitude with the naked eye. The Milky Way is oh-so-milky and Jupiter makes the brightest show at night. In fact, the galaxy’s viewing is so superb, numerous international observatories have been constructed in the area.

Mamalluca is an amateur-friendly facility, located just nine kilometers northeast of Vicuna. The observatory offers tours every night of the year, and a chance to look through its advanced telescopes, allowing surreal glimpses at the galaxy unlike anywhere else in the world. The most exciting site is a look at Saturn’s rings! However when we got there it was too late.

We had a scary ride from a minibus driver who was pushing the limits of the van the whole way there. The road was bumpy and the van seemed to bounce and slide giving the feeling the wheels wasn't really touching the road much.

We did arrive in one piece and after a brief video in Spanish explaining nothing more than an old national geographic program would tell you about how vast the universe is we were led outside to one of six large refractors.

There was a three quarter moon which was amazing to see up close. Mars you could see with the naked eye once the man with the laser pen showed us where to look, through the lens it wasn't much bigger which was disappointing.

Some stars once viewed wasn't actually stars at all they were galaxies containing many thousands of stars which was cool.

After viewing the newest and oldest stars in the sky, the oldest probably not even there any more, just the light hasn't reached us yet, we went back inside the dome to have a look through the big Bertha that poked out the top.

Stars that are millions of miles away are fascinating but still small all the same. I wanted to see one up close like the moon.

The mad mini bus driver hurried us back in the van after a quick look at the gift store and before long we were travelling at full speed skimming over the tops of the bumps towards our hotel.

The long bus to Chile

The journey started a day late because we missed our original bus. We were left standing at the station with all our cases with no bus. After blaming the bus company representative for about an hour he arranged for us to get on the next bus without paying again even though it was our fault.

It felt good to board the bus even though the trip was due to last 12 hours plus any delays at the boarder. We found our seats and settled down, we were travelling through the night so the plan was to sleep as much as possible. Before long we was on the road to the mountain and spending long periods of time overtaking on the other side of the road. It was dark outside and the mountains were a way off so I tried not to pay attention to anything outside the bus.

The incline wasn't really noticeable and before long we were at the boarder control. Florencia got off and I stayed put with the baby. It was best that way because she could hand in the passports and answer any questions they had. Besides it was cold, I knew this because we were high up in the Andes Mountains and there was snow outside.

After the boarder we travelled down what I can only describe as the steepest decline of windy road in the world, in a line of juggernauts, some of them were lit up and flashing like a Christmas tree. Clark Griswold would have been proud.

The rest of the journey through the night was smooth and peaceful I managed to sleep for about half an hour before we reached our destination.

As we pulled into town we past a village called Coquimbo which reminded me of Algeciras. (All dirty and slum looking). I decided then not to visit this end of town.

We checked in and went straight to bed for a few hours.

Friday, March 12, 2010

Landon´s Baptism

After a lot of planning and a few sleepless nights we were off to potrorillos for a long weekend break and the baptism for Landon. We had chosen a location in the foot hills of the Andes Mountains because of the beautiful surroundings and the fact that we could enjoy a few days away.

We tried to rent a house to hold a garden party but all the landlords refused because we were inviting about 50 people. We eventually found a field which is part of a garden centre to hold our party and a house to rent which was also on the same plot.

The Friday and Saturday was spent relaxing or racing up the mountains on a quad bike and eating good food or drinking beer. Sunday morning came very quick and it was all go from the off. We had hired a large tent which was delivered and set up on the Saturday and about 10:30 on Sunday we had the delivery of the sofas and tables etc. The baptism was to start at noon and it was a rush to get ready and get to the church.

We arrived with about 5 minutes to spare and we quickly found our seats at the front. We were sharing the ceremony with another couple who only booked the week before otherwise it would had been just us.

I am glad the other people did book because it would have been very lonely because Florencia´s entire family except the ones who came with us didn't arrive on time and missed the service. To say that I was pissed off would be an understatement.

I like things to go as planned and not just for us, we put in a lot of time, effort and money to make it happen but for Landon too, I thought people would make more of an effort to be there early just in case to make sure they shared his special moment. The service itself went well and I was pleased for him even though I am not a Christian I plan to encourage him to follow.

After that I found it hard to enjoy myself. The rest of the day went well, everyone eventually turned up and we spent the afternoon taking photos and talking. Everyone said they had a nice time and the party was beautifully presented so I was pleased in the end.