Crossed the line

To everyone that followed this blog and sent me messages I want to thank you for all your support during my trip. We had a fabulous time.

Bopping

Growing fast

Zoológico de Mendoza

Bad point of the day was seeing the lionesses kept in small cages and the gross point was the chimp that crapped in her hand and ate it then crapped in the other hand and ate that too. I wonder which one tasted better mmm decisions decisions ( No I didn't video it )

Standing Up

I´ve got wheels

Landon playing on the bed

The Earthquake

During a nightly stroll along the beach front Florencia and I were looking at the big signs that advised you what to do and where to run if a Tsunami was coming. I was explaining how an earthquake usually is the culprit and how a shift in the ocean floor creates the wave.

We were joking about seeing one and the time you probably had to run for the hills being so short the sign would be much good.

Off we went to sleep after a nice meal and a beer zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz.

At 3:30 ish (I am not quite sure) we were woken and Florencia was saying "can you feel that?" "Feel what" I said. The next moment the wardrobe door was shaking and the coat hangers behind it were dancing in a desperate attempt to jump out, amplifying the sound. I was still just waking up not totally sure what was happening. I looked out the window and as I did so I felt the floor swaying back and forth and for the next few minutes there was no more doubt what was happening. Flore in a flash was dressed and ready I was still in my pants trying to find my trouser leg, she picked up the baby and ran for the stairs. I was a minute behind her and the 7 floors of stairs and the night air made sure I was fully awake.

We waited outside with all the other hotel guests who were rudely awoken for about an hour to make sure the hotel didn't fall down. We eventually went back upstairs to bed and I dropped off quite quickly. The hotel shook more that night and the next day several times, it wasn't a nice feeling. We were lucky because we had planned to be in Santiago at this time and the city took a large hit.

Isla Damas Natural Reserve

We were up early for breakfast and loaded in the minibus by about 9am. We headed north for about 1 hour before we hit the windy mountain pass that seemed forever to climb. The minibus started to make a hissing sound as we reached the top and our driver pulled over and gave us the bad news. He called for back up because he wouldn't take us any further even though he just filled up with more water.

The next 2 hours we were roasting by the side of the road hopefully picking out the cavalry only to be disappointed by another white van. We did however have a nice set of companions from the van who gave us mate and biscuits.

By the time the new van came we were all hoping not to be the next carcases for the vultures to pick at. Wouldn't you like to bet who the new driver was? Yes the one and only Speedy Gonzales from our last encounter. He greeted us with a smirk, probably because he knew it was us that complained about him a few days before.

We drove on to Caleta Punta Choros. Here, we took in the views of Gaviota, Chañaral, Choros and Damas islands, the later three of which are part of the Humboldt Penguin National Reserve: a protected territory covering some 2,000 offshore acres where the Humboldt penguin has been known to nest. We soon had to jump into a wooden motor boat and sail across to the rocky shores of Gaviota and Choros islands, happy home to sea lions, sea gulls, pelicans and the like. After about an hour of getting too close to the big swirl and boat crunching rocks we disembarked on Isla Damas, to spend the afternoon relaxing on the white-sand beaches of La Poza and Tijera.

Twinkle Twinkle, Little Star

Close your eyes and try to imagine life at Earth’s magnetic center. Are you picturing volcanoes, tidal waves, earthquakes and molten lava? Try an oasis of wandering goats, fermented grapes, new age gurus and telescopes. Believe it or not, the spot on earth that’s supposedly most energetically charged is an arid valley to the west of the Andes, in central Chile.

Spiritual wanderers and gurus of meditation, yoga, astrology and the like, settled in Chile’s Elqui Valley in the 1960’s. Their search led them to this location, a place where two rivers (the Turbio and Claro) act as the ying and yang of Earth’s new water chakra or “Svadhisthana.”

Astrology tells us that for the past 2000 years, Earth’s previous magnetic center was located in the Himalayas, in Tibet. That, however, was in the Age of Pisces. Today, in the Age of Aquarius, the magnetic core has flopped hemispheres to 30 degrees South.

In 1982, scientists measured Earth’s magnetic forces for the first time by satellite. Sure enough, the hippies were right on. The satellites found the Earth’s greatest point of energy in South America, around Chile’s Elqui Valley.

From Chile’s oldest coastal city, La Serena, the Elqui Valley can be reached by bus. Several bus companies leave from La Serena’s bus terminal and travel the route east into the valley, stopping in villages along the way to pick up and drop off school children and other locals. The drive into the valley is breathtaking as the scenery moves away from coastal and into the mountains.

Another reason to stop in Vicuna is a chance to visit the Mamalluca Municipal Observatory. That’s right, the Elqui Valley isn’t known just for its magnetism, this region also happens to sit under one of the clearest atmospheres in the world. The Elqui Valley sits out of the way of city lights and maintains a gentle, steady climate with little wind or precipitation. So if stargazing is your thing, you’re about to be blown away.

On a moonless night, the starry skies can be seen up to the eighth magnitude with the naked eye. The Milky Way is oh-so-milky and Jupiter makes the brightest show at night. In fact, the galaxy’s viewing is so superb, numerous international observatories have been constructed in the area.

Mamalluca is an amateur-friendly facility, located just nine kilometers northeast of Vicuna. The observatory offers tours every night of the year, and a chance to look through its advanced telescopes, allowing surreal glimpses at the galaxy unlike anywhere else in the world. The most exciting site is a look at Saturn’s rings! However when we got there it was too late.

We had a scary ride from a minibus driver who was pushing the limits of the van the whole way there. The road was bumpy and the van seemed to bounce and slide giving the feeling the wheels wasn't really touching the road much.

We did arrive in one piece and after a brief video in Spanish explaining nothing more than an old national geographic program would tell you about how vast the universe is we were led outside to one of six large refractors.

There was a three quarter moon which was amazing to see up close. Mars you could see with the naked eye once the man with the laser pen showed us where to look, through the lens it wasn't much bigger which was disappointing.

Some stars once viewed wasn't actually stars at all they were galaxies containing many thousands of stars which was cool.

After viewing the newest and oldest stars in the sky, the oldest probably not even there any more, just the light hasn't reached us yet, we went back inside the dome to have a look through the big Bertha that poked out the top.

Stars that are millions of miles away are fascinating but still small all the same. I wanted to see one up close like the moon.

The mad mini bus driver hurried us back in the van after a quick look at the gift store and before long we were travelling at full speed skimming over the tops of the bumps towards our hotel.

The long bus to Chile

The journey started a day late because we missed our original bus. We were left standing at the station with all our cases with no bus. After blaming the bus company representative for about an hour he arranged for us to get on the next bus without paying again even though it was our fault.

It felt good to board the bus even though the trip was due to last 12 hours plus any delays at the boarder. We found our seats and settled down, we were travelling through the night so the plan was to sleep as much as possible. Before long we was on the road to the mountain and spending long periods of time overtaking on the other side of the road. It was dark outside and the mountains were a way off so I tried not to pay attention to anything outside the bus.

The incline wasn't really noticeable and before long we were at the boarder control. Florencia got off and I stayed put with the baby. It was best that way because she could hand in the passports and answer any questions they had. Besides it was cold, I knew this because we were high up in the Andes Mountains and there was snow outside.

After the boarder we travelled down what I can only describe as the steepest decline of windy road in the world, in a line of juggernauts, some of them were lit up and flashing like a Christmas tree. Clark Griswold would have been proud.

The rest of the journey through the night was smooth and peaceful I managed to sleep for about half an hour before we reached our destination.

As we pulled into town we past a village called Coquimbo which reminded me of Algeciras. (All dirty and slum looking). I decided then not to visit this end of town.

We checked in and went straight to bed for a few hours.

Landon´s Baptism

After a lot of planning and a few sleepless nights we were off to potrorillos for a long weekend break and the baptism for Landon. We had chosen a location in the foot hills of the Andes Mountains because of the beautiful surroundings and the fact that we could enjoy a few days away.

We tried to rent a house to hold a garden party but all the landlords refused because we were inviting about 50 people. We eventually found a field which is part of a garden centre to hold our party and a house to rent which was also on the same plot.

The Friday and Saturday was spent relaxing or racing up the mountains on a quad bike and eating good food or drinking beer. Sunday morning came very quick and it was all go from the off. We had hired a large tent which was delivered and set up on the Saturday and about 10:30 on Sunday we had the delivery of the sofas and tables etc. The baptism was to start at noon and it was a rush to get ready and get to the church.

We arrived with about 5 minutes to spare and we quickly found our seats at the front. We were sharing the ceremony with another couple who only booked the week before otherwise it would had been just us.

I am glad the other people did book because it would have been very lonely because Florencia´s entire family except the ones who came with us didn't arrive on time and missed the service. To say that I was pissed off would be an understatement.

I like things to go as planned and not just for us, we put in a lot of time, effort and money to make it happen but for Landon too, I thought people would make more of an effort to be there early just in case to make sure they shared his special moment. The service itself went well and I was pleased for him even though I am not a Christian I plan to encourage him to follow.

After that I found it hard to enjoy myself. The rest of the day went well, everyone eventually turned up and we spent the afternoon taking photos and talking. Everyone said they had a nice time and the party was beautifully presented so I was pleased in the end.

Recent Activities

Flippin Burgers

A few weeks ago we had another party, this time burgers were on the menu. I can now say that I have seen the biggest bag of hamburgers ever! It was as big as a bin bag and contained hundreds of yummy burgers. Here is my cousin on a double grill doing his best not to burn any. No sweat!

Dakar

What used to be known as Paris to Dakar rally is now known as just Dakar. First Paris was dropped as the start point and later the route through African nations to Dakar became too dangerous for everyone concerned.

Now a switch to South America means that I have encountered this sport 3 times so far. If your not familiar with Dakar it is a motor rally consisting of teams of trucks, cars and motorbikes racing through stages of on and off road terrain. 

My first meeting with the sport was on New Years Day a few years ago, I had been to Portugal for a short holiday and my father and I was driving on the motorway back towards Spain. The motorway was lined at every bridge with supporters waving banners and it became apparent quite quickly that something was happening when we passed a few motorbikes with numbers on them. Shortly after the stream of fast off road cars were passing us in a frantic attempt at making up some time on the tarmac. The heavy trucks blocked up the carriageways and made a difficult 6 hour journey home. One highlight was beeping the horn when passing the spectators and watching them spin round from what they was doing to wave at us only to find out we were a normal car on the motorway.

For the last two years I have been in Argentina when the rally passed by us. It brings a lot of excitement here in Argentina, for the duration it is the highlight of all conversations and the coverage on the TV is extensive.

I have compiled some photos taken from this years Dakar. Click on the text bubble icon for a desciption

San Rafael

Google maps had told me the journey would take about 3 hours so we set off on Friday morning early to try and get a head start on the blazing midday sun. We had booked 3 nights in Hotel Nitra in Valle Grande and we were looking forward to being alone for the first time since July last year. The sneaky sun was on to my plan and woke up early too to burn my arm and face through the window for the first hour or so until we changed direction. The Dakar Rally ensured that the road to San Rafael was busy in the opposite direction which wasn't a problem until the motorway stopped and the carriageways joined to make an overtaking nightmare.

The problem is here that there are many old trucks and cars on the road which lost their power a long time ago and these gutless snails get in the way of everyone else on the road which meant for me I had the feeling I was driving the wrong way on a dual carriageway because the spectators from the rally were doing their on racing and spending sometimes a heart stopping amount of time on my side of the road and I had my own overtaking problems to deal with as well. After a while the flow of traffic reduced and the drive was becoming a little easier, then once the towns had been passed and the trees that hug the outskirts slowly faded away we were faced with long straight roads on a flat landscape containing absolutely nothing except a few hardy shrubs and tumble weed.

For what seemed like hours we drove and drove in a straight line and then out of nowhere came a few curves and then trees started to appear, before long we were approaching a police check point that indicates you are entering another town. Finally we were back in the land of the living and it was comforting to be among other people again. 30 minutes later and we drove into the valley and were confronted with the rows of cabins and adventure adverts that lined the road.



Our hotel was adjacent to the river which was wide and fast flowing. We checked in and dumped the bags in the room and went to sit in the garden. There was a large pool with plenty of seating and sun beds, there was a poolside bar and we were starving so we ordered a couple of hamburgers and some drinks. The room was small and had an en-suite bathroom and digital tv but we wasn't to concerned because we planned to be outside most of the time. In the evening we explored up and down the valley stopping at a bar for mojito´s and then settled for a restaurant selling BBQ . The setting was quaint next to a pond with huge tables but it was the food we was interested in and it didn't disappoint.

Saturday we were up and down the river exploring when we came across a dam. We stopped to take a few photos and I noticed that the top of the dam had traffic lights so without delay we set off to find the way up there. The windy road took us through two short tunnels and then out on top of the dam wall. To one side we could see over the valley and straight down the almost vertical wall (James Bond would love to bungee down this one). To the other side as expected there was a huge lake with high rock boundaries and oddly a small beach across the other side.




In the evening we had dinner at a Restaurant at the top end of the river, we sat on the veranda and ate with the sound of millions of litres of water gushing past us.

Sunday morning we got up and drove to a place called el nihuill which is a man made lake with a dam. On the way there we stopped for fuel at a petrol station and as we approached Florencia said "your gonna love it in there" and behold my favourite creature the wasp and his angry friends were swarming all over the place. I am a self confessed big girl´s blouse when it comes to wasps, my friends will have great pleasure confirming that on several occasions I have been seen running around in a flap with my arms waving about when one is around me. Needless to say I made Florencia get out and do the deal and buy some refreshments while I stayed inside the car with the windows done up.

We then preceded with our journey and found a road which reminded me of the game ´Outrun´ before we eventually found the dammed lake we were looking for.

Disappointed with the time it took us to find and then get bored with the place we got back in the car and drove through the canyon for the journey back. The road was mostly gravel and we was told it would take about two and a half hours. Two and a half hours of dusty bumpy dirt and gravel track should have been the signal not to go down this road but to see the best of the canyon you need to persevere. My ass hurt and Florencia has a stiff neck now but we did see some amazing lakes and rock formations. woohoo.



I had never been so glad to see the water sport touts because that meant we was close to the action which also meant close to the hotel. A siesta was needed and after we had a beer by the river and watched the water go by until it was dark and time for bed but before we left we saw a fire flies glowing up above us as we looked at the countless stars in the sky.

Monday morning we left the hotel in search for our final and hopefully better destination ´Los Reyunos´ we past the wasps and drove for another hour and found "oh god another hydro electric power plant" complete with dam and lake. The only restaurant was not open and within 20 minutes we were wondering what to do now. We had a long journey home ahead so we got on with it. We had an excellent time and now we were all  exhausted.

Day out at the pool

We were all looking forward to visiting a different thermal pool especially us because we only went a few days ago to Cacheuta. The bags were packed and the shopping bought and food prepared and cooked for lunch. 


In the morning the family arrived at our house and it looked like we were going to have a fun day out together. There was some uncertainty outside about where this place actually was or so I thought. It turned out that a friend was invited and she had a better plan. So off we drove in a convoy for about 2 hours until we arrived at a pool. To be honest I was glad to be out of the car but when we were told it wasn't the intended destination the mood changed to one of dissatisfaction. 


The pool was clean but cold and the surroundings was nice but not everyone was going to swim now and one of those not swimming was our baby Landon because it was too cold. We paid the entry fee and sat down for lunch under the tree and before long the mood got a little better but not much. 


I was looking forward to swimming with the baby but I ended up with a brief swim. It worked out that I paid 250 pesos for the day out when you account the shopping, petrol and entries and I didn't get the good day out feeling I hoped for.

Swimming with Daddy

Lomos

In my younger years my friend Lee and I used to make sandwiches that were five stories high with just about everything in the cupboard jammed inside. In Argentina they have something similar called Lomos.

I wish Lee could be with me here now to witness and try out these super size sandwiches.

A normal Lomo consists of two very large slices of bread like an English loaf sliced longways. Inside of course you have a layer of beef steak, ham, cheese, lettuce, tomatoes and egg.

From there it just gets silly.

Cacheuta Spa

The Cacheuta Spa (Spanish: ‘Termas de Cacheuta’) is a bathing establishment in Argentina exploiting the natural hot springs at Cacheuta on the Mendoza River in the foothills of the Andes. The spa lies on the old road leading from the city of Mendoza to the Uspallata Pass over the mountains into Chile.

The first spa

This area of the Andes is known for many hot springs. However, in the heyday of the Argentine’s boom in 1904 the spa at Cacheuta was developed on a massive scale. Financed by the issue of shares to speculative investors, a very substantial and luxurious hotel was built on the hillside above the river, with a bathing establishment below consisting of a large space lit from roof lanterns with individual bathrooms leading off it. The establishment achieved particular success through its link with the Transandine Railway, which opened in 1910.

The line ran straight past the hotel, and a special railway station was erected there, about I km east of the station in Cacheuta village. Passengers alighting on the platform at the spa station would descend a staircase directly into the spa hotel, while their luggage would be brought down in a lift constructed within a tower modelled on an Italian campanile. Special packages and excursions were offered, and a wide range of glittering special events were celebrated in the local press. In 1934, however, there was calamity: a glacial flood roared down the Mendoza canyon and completely destroyed the spa. The establishment never recovered.

The second spa

In 1986 a new less ambitious project was taken forward. Within the ruins of the original buildings a new smaller hotel was constructed, only the campanile surviving from the former establishment; on the lawns there is a formal swimming pool. Bathing facilities are being developed at a lower level nearer the river, offering mud baths and pools at various temperatures; massage and other therapies are also offered, along with hiking, horse-riding and other pursuits unrelated to bathing.

The construction of a dam at Potrerillos further up the river has eliminated the possibility of a repetition of the disaster of 1934. However, it has also flooded the road to the frontier (now by-passed by a major arterial road a few miles to the south), while the railway was abandoned in 1984, so the spa is no longer en route to other destinations – though at only about half an hour’s drive from the centre of Mendoza it attracts a good lunchtime trade at the weekends, as well as Argentine patrons of the baths; foreign tourism is less noticeable except when I am there 6ft 2 with blue eyes.

3 Kings

Not celebrated by the British except for a few like me who have a link to undiluted Christian celebrations. If you don't know, the time when the 3 kings visited baby Jesus was January 5th and not Christmas Eve as others would have you believe. A merge of faiths and the impossibility of having two celebrations to close together meant that a rubber was used in the history book. Anyway on the night of the 5th today´s 3 kings can be seen on a float throwing sweets to the children who line the streets in anticipation. After this the kids go home to find their gifts await them under the tree. Santa is known and gifts are given on the 24th of December but the creepy fat guy in a red suit who wants your kid to sit on his knee is only just making his name and that's only because of the extra presents.

Patriotism

Here is a country that doesn't have everything, in fact a lot of the population have nothing at all. But what they all share is a love for their country. Maybe not love for the government or the banks but they are proud to be Argentinean and the evidence is everywhere. They show off their patriotism with flags, not just any flags but huge ones 5 meters square standing in every part of town. Most houses proudly fly the flag and every man and I imagine nearly every woman has a football or rugby shirt. Even in the supermarket, every checkout has a flag and there are even a few scattered around the shop. It doesn't matter where you are you always know which country you are in and that is a good thing.


Argentina has immigration and the needy who come for a better life, but the people of Argentina don't pull down there flags or change the name of Christmas oh no, they are Christians and this is their country and nothing will ever change that. I hoped that my Christian country England with all its wealth, gloriousness and patriotism that my forefathers had given their lives to protect was cherished and displayed in this way but I am saddened by the fact that it is lost and given away to people who hate us by people who couldn't care less.

Playing in the water with mummy

He didn't like it at first but after a while it didn't faze him at all. In fact I think he quite liked it.





A favourite car here is the old Fiat 600, there are so many on the roads but not all in good condition. I got the chance to have a go so I thought why not.I was a bit big and I couldn't find 3rd or 4th gear so I only went around the block using 1st and 2nd but it was fun being noddy.

Happy New Year

Happy New Year everyone wherever you may be in the world. I spent my New Year at home in Argentina with my wife's family. It was a low key get together which was nice. For me New Year celebrations are a bit hit and miss so I prefer to be in control of it and spend it with people I really want to be with. To go out whether it be a pub, club or restaurant you need to pre buy a ticket which forces you to stay in one place, apparently for your benefit which is obviously a ploy to take all of your money. You are squeezed in to a packed room of strangers and end up fighting your way to and from the bar all night because there was a problem with staff shortages through unexpected illnesses. What ever was the problem with partying with friends at home? New Year is a time to be with loved ones but for me being 10000 miles away from most of the people I know made me think of the people I left behind in England: My Dad, my best friends Lee, Dan, Hannah & Lilia, my Aunties, Uncles and Cousins. The ones from Spain: the new families from antenatal, Bianca, Erwin & Marlon, Pilar & Eddy. My Mum, Sister and the Boys in Canada. From Gibraltar the crew from 888 and everyone else I know I wish you all the best for the New Year and the New Decade.